Hinckley Radio Control Car Club

I spent the day at Ardent setting up my car. Basically, I built it to the manual with out setting the droop screws and went for it. HOLY COW! Never experienced a drive like this in my life. Then I set the droop screws and wow again. The car is dialed. I must say that building a car that requires practically no shims is a dream. Every part went together brilliant and is the smoothest movement I have ever felt. Car weighs 1355g's.

I bought a few more things:
- Spektrum DX3r transmitter
- Futaba BLS551 servo
- Spec-R double link front driveshafts (in post)
- Ordered H links and Aluminum shocks
-Huddy weights 12g and 6g's (these were brilliant as my car was almost perfectly balance L to R but 100 grams to light. These were so thin that I was able to put them under the belt and to the inside part of the battery. When I ran out of space I had to put weight in the corners.

So my car is all set up for Ardent but what do you change for the Hinckley track? Do you increase or decrease any settings on your Tekin?

With the settings below my motor was 77 degrees. It was very cold inside the building.
Tekin Settings
Boost: 45
Start: 5443. End: 20016
Turbo Delay: .2
Turbo: 10
Turbo Ramp: 2
Throttle Profile: 4
Current Limit: off
Throttle Minimum: 10
Drag Brake: off
Brake Strenght: 100
Reverse Speed: 100 dunno why? Tuning fwd only.
Push Control: off
Neutral Width: 5
Brake Minimum: 10

This is with as LRP x12 Stock Spec 13.5 with 0 degree timing insert and FDR of 7.96.

Well, there yah go. Any help is massively appreciated and thank you to all of you who have helped me over the past week.

Michael Johnson
Team BritUS

hi ,mike from my experience with the driveshafts u might need 6 deg castor blocks , they give a hell load of steering

U talking about the spec r driveshafts? I have ordered H links all-round to sort the steering out too. Supposidly they soften the aggressiveness up too.

Hi Michael, I can't help you with your Xray... as I have no experience of them, but I do know they are pretty much the car to have at the moment, & boy, you really get through some R/C gear!!

If its any help - with my Corally, now that I've found a good set-up for carpet, it pretty much works everywhere, with only the odd small adjustments to tailor the car to the particular track or layout (even temperature)... so if your car worked ok at Ardent i'm pretty sure it will run well at Hinckley with the same settings. My car is very sensitive to having a free/smooth diff - i'm guessing the Xray is the same?? Make sure that it is well maintained... I re-build mine after about every two or so meetings... please Corally make a geared diff!!

Hoping to be their this Sat!

Totally understand yah when you mention the diff. My tamiya was horrible on diffs and keeping sticker diff covers on them was a pain. If they flew off your diff was gritty by the end of the race. The Xray diffs have built-in covers and are very smooth. Not sure if I even need to put in ceramic diff balls and thrust bearings. Might as well leave what works alone. I have always over built my cars or worst yet...blinged them up. Only bling I bought this time was some stainless screws, aluminium shocks with aluminium spring retainers. And shortened all the wires to all my electronics to the exact length to the receiver. It just looks good, no piles of wires...oh, and my Pinstriped bodyshell. LoL

Xray still treating me very well. Some at Ardent have changed to Xray and laptimes have dropped. Glad to see I chose a good car but still Gunna get a Hotbodies one day.

Xrays are very nice Cars, but if you want more Steering, Grip & Traction Buy a Hot Bodies TCX!!

HPI/HB will have World Domination!!

Hopefully things will be better this weds. Found out what changes I need to make for a low grip track. I was running my top deck as if I was racing on a high traction one. I shall take you down! Or at least, look good trying!