Quick Silver - Tamiya & RTR Touring Car Thread

[Wacker1]

BRUCE BAKER?..........sounds more like a Kung Fu Expert to me!

[Hail Ming]

cheers guys james is looking forward to racing its a good step up from mardave without jumping right in to a touring car hopefully there will be two heats soon as my youngest son harry(bruce baker) will be racing the week after

More the merrier - nice one Justin.

[Dale]

I hope Bruce wont CHOP and change too much...................just a play on words for you all to ponder! lol

[deaks]

cheers guys james is looking forward to racing its a good step up from mardave without jumping right in to a touring car hopefully there will be two heats soon as my youngest son harry(bruce baker) will be racing the week after

Yay! Just need to get you racing again now Justin!

BTW after watching the 13.5T lot last weekend, I don't think James would have anything to worry about when he decides to make the jump.... you'll probably need to reinforce his chassis and put spikes on the body shell in case he has a bad run and ends up in the bottom heat though....

[dogpinkscot]

its not touring car its ROBOT WARS

[stox217]

My silver lotus will be out in force again tomorow

One big question
My mate has a tc3 he has tryed everything to fit a std sivercan motor but the motor mount's hole is too small to fit the brushing through the motor mount so he asked me what can i do i said you can either hire the clubcar again or either turn the speed down (has a 27turn stock motor in it) so it will be the same speed as what we are running at

So does anybody has any issues with him running? (the guy in question is a junior)

[Eddystone]

Hi Nick,

Sorry to hear of the problem of fitting the silver can in a TC3 - would it be possible to file out or machine out the motor mount to allow a silver can to fit?

Now I don't make the rules - but as your question has gone unanswered for a while I'll add my opinion - but it is only that, my opinion - it means nothing. I'm just concerned that allowing non silver can motors will erode the core principle of the class, if people can get around the rules by using better race cars that wont take the specified motor then everyone will either want to use the better car, or the better motor. Quick Silver will mean nothing. Soon anarchy will reign and there will be an end to world order!

I reckon he needs to buy a TT-01E - possibly with a GT-R shell on it - solve the problem easily! ( Urm -is that a shameless plug for my car Ijust added to the For Sale section of the forum? )

Richard

[stox217]

If he can just use it for tomorow then he can work something out?

[stox217]

also he has tryed to mill out the motor mount and it just splits because it has no meat on it

[Eddystone]

If he can just use it for tomorow then he can work something out?

No problem with that as far as I'm concerned and will give us a chance to have a look at the problem and see if collectively we can solve it.

[stox217]

cheer's we will try and sort the problem out even if it requires selling on the tc3's and him buying a tt01

[Hail Ming]

Well...that was another fantastic week of racing - the best week yet.

This class is really catering to a universal market as shown by the steadily increasing numbers and diversity of drivers participating. What was noticeable was the excellent standard of driving in both heats and the big smiles as everyone left the rostrum. I watched some great battles and was impressed how everyone up'd their game throughtout the meeting - thank you all for making the racing so enjoyable; I can't wait for next week...

Cheers

James

[Hail Ming]

Another successful Quick Silver meeting...the racing was more challenging this week, because of the sheer number of cars on the track, but I see that as adding to the fun and helping to improve everyone's driving skills (whether you're overtaking or being overtaken). Again, the standard of driving was excellent and a real example for the other classes.

I tried a different gear ratio this week on my TT01E - 26/55 (overall 5.50); however, I think this was a pinion tooth too far for the track and the NiMH cells I was using.

Pleased to see everyone enjoying themselves and uping their game throughout the meeting - in particular, young James Baker was flying in the finals and making good use of his newly fitted anti-roll bars. Jamie Cheshire's new car - a Kyosho TF-5 Readyset - demonstrated its potential and looks likely to be a competitive alternative to Tamiya's TT01 chassis.

For anyone interested in getting the most out of their silver can motor - Richard Dobson has been researching the topic and found some useful 'break-in' and maintenance tips from the Leighton Buzzard R/C Club website. The tips are summarised below:

Break-in

Motor break-in is important as it provides the opportunity to correctly seat the motor brushes onto the commutator; thereby increasing electrical contact and resulting in more power and rpms.

1. Oil the bushes with light oil (WD40 or comm drops) 3 times over the space of 48hours prior to break-in. Allow the oil to be absorbed by the porous bronze bushes between each application.

2. Using a 4-cell pack or low voltage power supply (some battery chargers have a motor break-in function) run the motor backwards whilst submerged in cold tap water for 3-4 mintues. You'll notice the water turns grey.

3. Remove the motor from the water, fit a pinion (to provide load on the motor) and run for a minute or two to dry.

4. Repeat the process with fresh water - but this time, run the motor forward. You'll notice the water is cleaner this time.

5. Clean the motor (see below how to do this) and place a very small drop of comm drops (or WD40) on the copper commutator and re-oil the bushes.

Maintenance

The key to maintaining the performance and life of a silver can motor is a balance between removing the carbon build-up on the commutator without removing the natural lubrication of the brushes. Never flush the motor with motor cleaner.

1. Use a cotton bud dipped in motor cleaner to clean the commutator - to do this push the cotton bud at an angle through the cooling vent on the motor onto the commutator and rotate the motor manually. This can usually be done with the motor in situ by simply rotating the wheels. Be careful not to leave any cotton residue on the commutator.

2. Repeat 5 or 6 times or until the cotton bud is free from carbon deposits.

3. Re-oil the bushes with a light oil.

Hope this helps...

James

[Dale]

Hi Guys,

I 100% agree with James that this class is getting stronger by the week and I am very pleased with this.

The number of cars in one heat for this class I feel is a massive bonus as with the pace of the silver can, driver numbers will simply lead to better racing!

The couple who came to use Mardave last week have now booked the club car for the 14th November as they loved the look of this racing.

We might need to consider a further club car in this class so keep you eyes peeled please!

Regards Dale Chairman

[Hail Ming]

We might need to consider a further club car in this class so keep you eyes peeled please!

This sounds like a job for Richard (Eddystone) - he has a loft full!